From The Big Field Trip – Bulgaria, October – November 2009

When Bulgarians make their martenitsas, they make them for their friends and family, never for themselves. In early spring, they make martenitsas in their homes by braiding red and white strands of wool together.  On March 1^st they are given out to friends and family or people they want to meet. The martenitsas can also be bought at stores and markets. If someone gives you a martenitsa, it is like saying, “I wish you health, good luck, happiness, and friendship.”

When you get a martenitsa, you put it on until you see a stork, a swallow, or a blooming tree. Storks, swallows and blooming trees represent spring coming.  Then you tie your martenitsa on a branch of the first blooming tree that you see.  You can also put the martenitsa under a rock, and if a worm comes to it first you get good luck. On the other hand, if a spider comes to it you get bad luck. If an ant comes to it first you’ll get good luck, but you’ll have to work for it.

From The Big Field Trip – Bulgaria, October – November 2009

The first day we arrived in Bulgaria, we saw martenitsas hanging on tree branches. Martenitsas, martenitsas, martenitsas! Some of the trees were full of them! There were dozens on every branch. Until I arrived in Veliko Turnovo I didn’t know the tradition about these red and white bracelets. I learned about them from Georgi, our guide. Georgi makes martenitsas for his friends and family every year at the end of winter. A lot of friends give him bracelets; sometimes he gets so many that his wrists are full of them.

I think martenitsas are awesome, including the spider part. When we get back to Santa Fe I am definitely going to celebrate the arrival of Grandma Marta by making bracelets from red and white strands of wool. I am going to give them out to my friends on March 1^st to wish them good luck, health, happiness, and friendship.

                  Once upon a time there was a very large man-eating brown bear. It had been eating people from a village nearby its lair so the villagers sent their bravest men to track down the bear and kill it. The men followed the bear’s footprints to its lair, high up in the mountains. It was a small tunnel descending into the bear’s den in the mountain. A man named Gyuro decided to crawl into the tunnel (it was to small to walk into). He tied a rope around his waist and crawled in headfirst. After a while, when Gyuro didn’t come back, they tugged on the rope nervously. When he still didn’t come out, they pulled and pulled until they dragged him out, a man without a head.  “Didn’t Gyuro have a head?”  One of the men asked.  “Of course! Or did he?” said another man. All of the men argued for a bit, and then one said “Let’s go to Gyuro’s wife, she’ll know!” So they went back to the village. They found Gyuro‘s wife out beating rugs in front of her house. They told her the story, and then asked her “Did Gyuro have a head?” She thought a bit, and said “Good question.” She thought a bit more then exclaimed “Ah, I know, Gyuro bought a hat last year, so he must have had a head!”

From Bulgaria

The End

The Moral of this story is never go into something Headfirst (especially man-eating bear caves) without checking it out first.

 Or

The hiddden moral: If you do something stupid, people will question your intelligence.

When I walked down a street in Sofia, somebody stopped me in my tracks and said something to me that I did not understand. He was speaking n Bulgarian. It made me feel uncomfortable. I wish I could have said that I did not speak Bulgarian, but I couldn’t even say that.

When we were on the airplane from London to Bulgaria, I was terrified. What was I going to say to the woman beside me who was speaking in Bulgarian to me?  Luckily she was from London and spoke English too. When she said, “Oh, do you speak Bulgarian?” I said “No. Do you?”

She said, “A little bit. What’s your name?”

I said, “Bella. What’s yours?”

She said, “Niki.”

Then I felt brave, happy, and excited too, because she was going to teach me Bulgarian. She taught me how to say “hello” in Bulgarian. She said say “zdra-ve-te”, and I did. I’ve been in Bulgaria for six weeks now, and I’m still not good at speaking Bulgarian, but I’m getting the hang of it.

When you’re traveling you should learn some basic words because they will come in handy. I think it’s important to learn numbers, letters, and words like “hello”, “good-bye”, and “I don’t understand”.  I also think it is important to know how to say “thank you”. In Bulgarian thank you is “blah-goo-dar-ya”, but you can also say “merci”.  In Spanish thank you is “gracias”, in Portuguese it’s “obrigada (o)”, in Arabic it’s “chokran” ???? and in French it’s “merci”.

From The Big Field Trip – Tunisia, March, 2009

In Bulgaria it is important to know the head signals too. Shaking your head  from side to side means “yes” and nodding up and down means “no.” Learning this is very difficult. Once someone asked me if I understood Bulgarian, and I shook my head. So he kept on talking in Bulgarian.

When I got to Bulgaria, I did not know how to speak any Bulgarian except for what I learned from Niki. The hardest part about learning Bulgarian is they write very differently than we do. My name is spelled like this in Bulgarian ????e??!

I learned languages in many different ways. Mom has been speaking Spanish to me since I was born, so in Peru I was fine speaking in Spanish. My understanding of Spanish helped me learn Portuguese in Brazil and Portugal because these two languages are very alike. When we went to Brazil, my family and I took Portuguese lessons. Cyrus and I took one lesson before Mama and Papa took another lesson. We took lessons from a professional young lady. Inãe was very patient and very nice. I even learned by reading books and listening to people on the sidewalks chattering to each other.

From The Big Field Trip – Brazil, December, 2008

I learned Arabic and French in Tunisia. I took lessons from a young lady named Fadoua, who taught us French. Sometimes she taught us arts and crafts because she was in college studying art. Yousef was a friend of ours from Tunisia who took us to the Sahara Desert. He spoke Arabic, French, English, and Italian, and taught us some Arabic.

From Bulgaria

I am learning the Cyrillic alphabet in Bulgaria. I listen to Bulgarian language podcasts with my family. My mom taught me how to say “goodbye”. You stay it like this “do-veezh-de-ne”. Both of my brothers have shirts that have the Cyrillic alphabet written on them. Mom quizzes us on the Bulgarian alphabet and animal names every day. I read signs on the streets. Ventzi, our Bulgarian teacher, has taught us names of animals. Bird is “petitza”. Now I can go to the grocery store and say “pet mlyako molya”. (They will give me five cartons of milk). There is still a lot more that I need to learn, but at least now I know how to say “ne razbirum Bulgarski”, which means “I don’t understand Bulgarian”. That gets me out of a lot of difficult situations.

From Bulgaria

I still have many languages to study, from Turkish to Hindi to Thai. I’ve got an adventure in front of me and lots to learn.  In the past year that we’ve been traveling I’ve felt scared of learning each new language, but now I know that I can learn to say some basic words and that will help me to communicate with people in tricky situations. Now I feel brave and excited to learn new languages.

We had been going on a tour all day. We were somewhere outside of Lencois, Brazil. We had been to Devil’s Hole, a pool so deep that its water looked black. If you held the water in your hands, it was brown. The pool wasn’t that big but it was hundreds of feet deep and there was a huge, steep waterfall feeding water into the pool. It had a steep zip line going into Devil’s Pool. People were flinging themselves off the waterfall and into space, and, instead of falling, they were yanked along by the zip line, like helpless kittens being kidnapped by an owl in a strong wind. There was no way I was going on that thing. I swam in the pool instead. I swam under the waterfall, which was a mistake because it pushed me underwater. It was fun, I did it again. Then we got into our guide’s car and continued our tour of Chapada Diamantina National Park.

From The Big Field Trip – Brazil, December, 2008

It was a really fun, adventurous day. I fed monkeys and ate many mangoes from the trees. I got within three feet of a viper with poison so deadly it could kill an adult in two hours. Its mouth was full of frog, but still. I got close to enough take good pictures, only backing off when my mom told me to. You don’t see one of those every day! I stuffed myself with Brazilian food from a buffet, which was delicious.  We went into a cave that looked like it was on the moon. There were no plants at all. My parents had to sign a slip that said it wasn’t their fault if anyone died. The cave was awesome! It had loads of stalactites and lots of alien insects like huge millipedes, blind grasshoppers, and tarantulas. I got as many close-up photos as I could, including a great one with Bella and a millipede. 

From The Big Field Trip – Brazil, December, 2008

Then we walked until we came to a crystal lake. It was very clear so we were going to snorkel. Then I heard the zip. It was another zip line. I could either climb down a 40 foot cliff or fly down the zip line, which cost 5 Reals (about 3 dollars). It went across the lake, almost, and landed in it. I decided to do it with my dad. It seemed like it would be fun. We paid and the owner strapped us to the zip line. I had on a harness, which was connected by a carabineer to a rope which was connected to the zip line (which made the zzzzzzzzz sound).

From The Big Field Trip – Brazil, December, 2008

Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzip! Splash, went my dad. My turn. Gulp. I walked to the edge of the plank, looked down at the dizzying drop, then jumped.

Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz, went the line. I was flying!  I held on tight to the rope, being yanked all over (or so it seemed). My heart was in my throat and then my strength seemed to leave me. I couldn’t hold on any longer so I braced myself and then let go of the rope, expecting to fall into the shallow water a long way down. Nothing happened. I felt a huge jolt, but I was still moving through the air.  I looked up to see that I was connected to the zip line. Of course! Then something yanked my feet back. Ker-splash! I hit the water. I got up and unhooked myself. “I want to do that again!” I told my dad. 

From The Big Field Trip – Brazil, December, 2008

That was one of many times I was nervous about doing something, then realized it was OK and/or fun when I “let go of the rope”.  Whether it’s talking to someone in a foreign language or walking around town by myself, I find out its OK.

From The Big Fieid Trip – London and Sofia, September 2009

Sofia is also a city of trees. Brown tree trunks line the streets like hundreds of statues. Leaves with all the colors of the rainbow float down to cover the sidewalks like a warm blanket. Chestnuts in a spiky cover hang on chestnut trees ready to fall.

As I wandered in Sofia, I noticed that the trees were full of seeds; big and little, circle and oval, they all scattered far from the parent tree. I saw crazy teenagers throwing chestnuts at bikes and trains. A maple seed with curved wings fluttered to the ground like a spinning parachute, and I picked it up. I split the seed open and put it on my nose so I looked like a rhino! Cruz did the same with papa’s help.

From Bulgaria

As I stood beneath a mighty walnut tree, I spied a dry walnut (stored by a lucky squirrel) hidden in a knot-hole. I reached up, standing on papa’s shoulders. I heard the “chip! chip!” of a squirrel chattering at us!

From Bulgaria

After that we said, “Sorry for taking your lunch, but thank you!” Oak trees were raining acorns, and squirrels were leaping and dancing as they gathered them up. I saw seeds in pods, cotton, purple fruit, spiky shells, berries, parachutes, and flat banana pods. Everywhere I looked there were seeds. 

 From Bulgaria

 Trees are living things. They get minerals and water from the ground through their roots. They use energy from the sun to turn carbon dioxide and water into sugar. This happens in the leaves, and it is called photosynthesis. Trees grow and then reproduce. When their flowers are pollinated they grow seeds.  Seeds are baby trees with food and nutrients so they can start to grow. They need enough food to live until they grow leaves and roots.

Seeds are made in all different shapes to help them disperse. Disperse means move away from the parent tree. If seeds did not disperse, when they grew they would be all crammed together, and they would have to fight for minerals, light, and water. Trees can’t move. Trees depend on other things to move the seeds like animals, people, gravity, and the wind. Some even get moved by the sun! When their pods dry up their seeds burst out of them like a spring had pushed them out. Seeds can even be dispersed by a wild teenager chucking chestnuts at trains!

From Bulgaria

For my project I took a lot of time to observe seeds. I threw seeds up in the air to see how they moved. I collected as many different types of seeds as I could and took them home to observe them. I drew their outside appearance then cut them open and drew their inside appearance. I drew details like color and texture. I described each seed in words. I read about seeds on the internet and saw a lot with my own eyes. On the internet I learned that poppies have very small seeds. The top of the poppy is like a rattle with really small holes. When the wind blows the poppy around, the rattle shakes, and poppy seeds go flying out. The whole seed experience was a lot of fun, especially standing on papa’s shoulders to get the dried walnut out of the tree.

From Bulgaria

As part of my project, papa and I made Baklava out of walnuts. Baklava is a great tasting desert that is made in Bulgaria. We made it because it has a lot of seeds. Walnuts are are the seeds of walnut trees. The sheets of phylo dough are made from the seeds of wheat, which is a grass. Here’s the recipe that we used. It is best to eat it with ice cream!

 BAKLAVA

INGREDIENTS: 

1 lb.  pastry sheets (phylo dough)

1 cup of butter

1 lb chopped or ground walnuts

1 tablespoon of cinnamon

1  cup sugar

1 cup water

1/2 cup honey

1. Grease a baking pan with melted butter
2. Layer 8 pastry sheets with melted butter brushed between every two sheets
3. Mix the chopped or ground walnuts and cinnamon and spread 1/3 of the nuts over the pastry sheets
4. Cover with 2 pastry sheets and brush with butter
5. Add another 1/3 of the nut mixture, spread evenly
6. Cover with 2 pastry sheets and brush with butter
7. Add remaining nut mixture, spread evenly
8. Cover with remaning pastry sheets with melted butter brushed between every two sheets
9. Cut the bakalava into diamond shaped pieces
10. Bake until golden
11. Make syrup form sugar  and water. boil & add honey. simmer for 20 minutes.  let cool.
12. Spread syrup over cooled baklava & soak for 24 hours!

From Bulgaria

Chili peppers were being cultivated in Peru more than 6,000 years ago. From the coast birds brought the seeds inland. Chilis are not spicy to birds, slugs, snails, and frogs. Birds eat the chilis and the seeds go through their digestive system unharmed. The chilis have a chemical called capsicum which slows digestive systems.  Most mammals crush the chili’s seeds when eating them, so they can not germinate. This is why chilis have the defense of spiciness to most animals. It’s sort of ironic that chilies are spread around the world by humans, who are not intended to eat them. 

Shopska salad                                         From Bulgaria

 Chili peppers are valued because they are high in vitamin C, they add spiciness and flavor, and they are addictive (with enough capsicum, your heart beats faster, making chilis addictive). Would you rather have a pot of beans or a pot of beans with chili peppers? Somewhere along the line a mutation occured which turned off the spiciness in the pepper, creating the sweet pepper. Both kinds of peppers were being cultivated in the Americas for thousands of years before they travelled around the globe.

The chili pepper (and sweet pepper) explosion all started back in the early 1500’s, the beginning of the Age of Exploration. When European ships sailed to the Americas (Peru, Mexico, Brazil etc.) they brought new discoveries back to Europe. These included potatoes, tobacco, tomatoes, corn, and chocolate!  Among these new commodities were peppers. The Portuguese are said to have first brought peppers back from the Americas.  

From Bulgaria

Chili peppers first traveled from the Iberian Peninsula around the coast of Africa.

The Travel of Chilis around the World by Cyrus Kirkman

Anyway, chilis went around Africa to India and then – BOOM! At that time everyone wanted to trade with India, so when chili peppers got there they spread all over. They spread to China and Thailand to the Middle East and Eastern Europe. The chili peppers went through Bulgaria to get to Hungary when the Ottoman Turks ruled much of Eastern Europe. Traders brought them to Tunisia in Northern Africa (it would be hard to bring them through the Sahara). Within 50 years of their arrival in Spain, they were being cultivated in kitchen gardens all over the world.

From Bulgaria

Chili peppers actually first spread throughout Europe as an ornamental houseplant; they are quite nice looking. In Bulgaria I saw three different colors of chili peppers on one small plant; they looked like lights on a Christmas tree. They were purple, red, and yellow. However, in Bulgaria today chili peppers and sweet peppers are included in almost every traditional dish that I’ve tasted so far. In Bulgarian outdoor markets, I’ve seen stalls overflowing with peppers of all colors, shapes, and sizes. About half of the produce here is peppers.

From Bulgaria

In the cuisine of every country we’ve visited, chili peppers were included. We’ve learned how to make lots of chili dishes. From stuffed peppers in Peru to harissa (a spicy chili paste) in Tunisia. We saw colorful, dried chili peppers hanging from stallsin Tunisian souks (markets), similar to the ristras we hang back in Santa Fe. We smelled the overpowering aroma of Peruvian chili peppers simmering in water and vinegar (to reduce their heat).  We bought fish and shrimp in a smelly Brazilian seafood market to make moqueca, a spicy seafood stew (see our photo below).  We roasted Spanish padrón peppers on the grill and sprinkled them with sea salt. We bought many Bulgarian pepper seeds to plant when we get home. I can still remember the smells, noises and sights. In Turkey, India, Thailand, and Vietnam (the countries we are going to next) chili peppers will be in many traditional dishes. Here are some recipes we’ve tried in the places we’ve been to so far…

Peruvian stuffed peppers

http://peruvian-cuisine.blogspot.com/2009/03/hot-delicious-and-very-unique.html

From The Big Field Trip – Brazil, January/February, 2009

Brazilian Moqueca (seafoodstew) above.

http://brazilian-food.suite101.com/article.cfm/moqueca_fish_stew

From The Big Field Trip – Tunisia, March, 2009

Tunisian Harissa Sauce

10 dried whole red spicy chilis, stems and seeds removed
2 Tablespoons olive oil
5 cloves garlic
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground caraway
Water

Cover the chilis with hot water and let them sit for 15 minutes until they soften. Place the chilisand remaining ingredients in a blender and puree until smooth using the chili water to thin it. The sauce should have the consistency of a thick paste. Serve with bread and mayonnaise. In Tunisia, they topped harissa with canned tuna and olives, but I prefer to keep those off.

Bulgarian Stuffed Peppers

http://easteuropeanfood.about.com/od/appetizers/r/friedpeppers.htm

From Bulgaria

Bulgarian Pork Kapama

Ingredients for 6 servings:

1 kg pork

6 Tb. oil

2 onions

 1 carrot

1/2 celery

4-5 dried red peppers

2-3 tomatoes (fresh or canned)

1 ts. red pepper (paprika)

1 ts. ground black pepper

1 Tb. chopped parsley

 salt

1. Cut up meat in large pieces. Boil in salted water, stirring with a wooden spoon until the liquid is evaporated. Then add 3 Tb. oil.

2. Fry meat, stirring all the time.

3. In oil, lightly brown consecutively and transfer to casserole dish: finely chopped onion, diced carrot, diced celery, chopped red peppers (blanched and skin peeled off), and tomatoes (skinned and coarsely grated).

4. Season with red and black pepper, chopped parsley and salt to taste.

5. Cover with warm water, add 3 Tb.oil and cover with lid (or aluminum foil).

6. Bake in a moderate oven. Take the casserole out every 15 minutes and stir. Cook for 2  to 2.5 hours, then serve warm.

From Bulgaria

Chili peppers are a great food. They can put a little spice in your dish, substitute for black pepper, lift your spirits, reduce spoilage of food and much more. They are almost everywhere, and in a certain way they have taken over the world.

From The Big Fieid Trip – London and Sofia, September 2009

Moss and grass grow between the cracks in the sidewalks

Crunch, I step on an empty green aluminum can

A bright reflection of the gold dome of a church blinds me for a moment

A gold M, a McDonald’s sign, stands on top of a ten-story building – a big gray block

Tangled gray TV and telephone lines along the cracked plaster of a wall

A parade of beeping cars with streamers stops at a red light, coming from a wedding

The ground vibrates as an electric trolley rumbles by

Ta-dum, ta-dum, ta-dum, a car tire driving over black cobblestones

Screech! A fan belt slips

A white plastic bag whips around in the wind in a trash-filled empty lot

Drip-drop, drip –drop, drip-drop, raindrops ripple puddles in a stone-lined pond then it begins to pour

In the rain, people funnel underground to emerge on the other side of the street

CAESARS CASINO a sign says, a man dressed as a Roman soldier, his spear points towards storm clouds

The rain water seeps into my clothes like a sponge, and I run for cover into a grove of chestnut trees 

 By Cyrus

From The Big Fieid Trip – London and Sofia, September 2009

The violin sounds like the mosquito buzzing in my ear at night

A gray haired man plays classical music on the subway stairs

On the steps of a church an old woman sells flowers in plastic cups

In a park a German shepherd runs “S”s in the grass, chasing a stick

A black statue of a dancer stands inside of a fountain full of chestnut leaves and

Above her 15 pigeons perch on a wire

Passing through a parking lot I smell car exhaust

Vroom! Vroom! A car drives fast and screeches around the corner

Rabbits in a cage on the sidewalk with children’s fingers poking inside

Plastic elephants in the window stare out at me

Black leather high-heeled boots, 300 Lev

Flakey pastry polygons in a bakery window

The smell of fresh bread floats into the air

By Bella