Papas Rellenas
Peruvian Stuffed Potatoes

Before I travelled to Peru I have to admit that I knew absolutely nothing about Peruvian cuisine, though I did have a few assumptions. I knew that corn and potatoes had been cultivated in this region since ancient times so I figured that the food was probably similar to what we found in Central America (empanadas, tamales, etc), but with a boiled potato on the side. Oh, and maybe some plain quinoa mixed in there too somehow. Frankly, I had low expectations. So you can imagine my delight when I discovered that Peru has one of the most diverse and inspired culinary traditions in the world.

The variety of ingredients in Peruvian cuisine can be explained by the country’s topography. Peru has three distinct ecological regions, each of which contributes its own set of foodstuffs. The Pacific coastal region is teeming with seafood, and its river valleys are oasis of vineyards, orchards and fields. The Andes Mountains run through the center of the country, offering a bounty from their alpine pastures and terraced gardens. The third region of Peru is the Amazon Rainforest, which is teeming with tropical delights. Because the three zones run vertically through the country, they are relatively close to one another, which allows for a rich mixing of elements and ideas.

Despite all of this, it was a potato dish that first caught my attention. I ordered my first papa rellena (stuffed potato) in Lima, within a day or two of arriving in the country. It was a revelation: mashed potato re-formed into a new spud-shaped delicacy, wrapped around a flavorful medley of ingredients (from savory to sweet to tangy), then fried. I had many papas rellenas in Peru, from the very simple versions prepared by street vendors, stuffed with boiled chicken or cheese, to more elaborate variations prepared in reputable restaurants. In the kitchen of the home we rented in Cajamarca, papas rellenas were the first dish I tried, and I did pretty well. But when our friend, Carlos, and his mother came over to cook with us, I learned the little tricks necessary to chase the perfect papa relleno. Here’s the current version of my recipe.

Ingredients:

· 1/3 cup raisins

· 1/3 cup kalmata olives, chopped or sliced

· 2 hardboiled eggs, diced

· 3 pounds Yukon gold potatoes*, peeled and quartered

· 1/2 cup chopped onion

· 2 cloves garlic, minced

· 1 tablespoon minced aji pepper, or jalapeno

· 1 teaspoon cumin

· 1/2 teaspoon paprika

· 1 pound beef (stew meat or other lean cut), chopped fine

· 1 cup beef broth

· 1 raw egg

· Flour for dusting

· Salt and pepper to taste

Directions:

1. Place the raisins in a small bowl and pour 1 cup boiling water over them. Let them soak for 10 minutes.

2. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Place the potatoes them in the pot and cook until they are tender and easily pierced with a fork (about 20 min).

3. When the potatoes are cooked, drain them in a colander. Mash the potatoes thoroughly. Season the mashed potatoes with salt and pepper to taste. Chill the potatoes for several hours, or overnight.

4. When the potatoes have chilled, sauté the onions and peppers in the vegetable oil over medium-low heat until soft and fragrant (about 8 min).

5. Add the beef broth, cumin, paprika, and chopped beef and simmer until liquid has evaporated and the meat has browned (about 30 min). Add more liquid if necessary (either water or broth), for the meat should reach a state of tenderness before all of the liquid has evaporated.

6. Drain the raisins and add them to the beef along with the garlic, chopped olives and chopped hard boiled egg. Season mixture with salt and pepper to taste. Remove from heat and let cool.

7. Once the potatoes are cold, add the raw egg and mix well.

8. Shape the papas rellenas: with floured hands, place about 1/4 cup of mashed potatoes in one hand, and make a well in the center. Fill the well with 1-2 tablespoons of the beef mixture. Mold the potato mixture around the beef, adding more potato mixture if necessary, and shape the whole thing into an oblong potato shape, about the size of a medium-small potato.

9. Repeat with the rest of the mashed potatoes. Coat each stuffed potato with flour and continue to shape. Makes 12-14 stuffed potatoes.

10. In a deep skillet or deep fat fryer, heat at least 2 inches of oil to 375 deg. Fry the potatoes in batches until they are golden brown, turning occasionally (about 4-5 minutes). Drain them on paper towels.

11. Keep the potatoes warm in a 200 degree oven until ready to serve.

12. I serve them with a quick-and-easy dipping sauce inspired by the condiments used by Peruvian street vendors: ½ cup mayo, 2 t. chili garlic sauce (or your favorite hot sauce), and 1 t. lime juice.

*Note about potatoes: Many of the types of potatoes I used in Peru are not available in the US. When we returned home, I first tried the recipe using russet potatoes, but they fell apart in the fryer. I was reluctant to try red potatoes because they turn to glue when mashed, so I tried Yukon Golds. They worked perfectly: they stayed relatively fluffy when mashed, yet held together in the fryer.