Okonomiyaki

Savory Japanese Pancakes

We have long been fans of Japanese cuisine, which for us meant sushi, tempura, grilled meat, or noodles in a light but savory broth. But just before we travelled to Japan, our friend, John, told us that we had to try okonomiyaki, and we were slightly embarrassed that we had never heard of it. Meaning, (roughly) “cooked as you like,” okonomiyaki originated in Osaka, though finding these fritters anywhere in Japan is not a challenge.

The most memorable experience was in Kanazawa. It was cold and rainy, and though the sushi at the fish market was quite good, we were looking for some comfort food to warm our bones. As luck would have it, there was a great okonomiyaki place right next door to our ryokan. A bowl containing the unmixed raw ingredients was delivered to our table, and we mixed and fried them ourselves on a tabletop griddle. The restaurant offered a wide variety of “toppings” (though they get mixed in), kind of like at a pizza joint, and we had to go back two more times before we could settle on our favorite combination. Mine was a simple pork and cabbage (recipe below), while Angela’s was asparagus, bacon and corn (see alternative recipe).

When we returned home, I researched different recipes, some of which call for grated mountain yam or a special okonomiyaki flour. I haven’t used either of these, but I feel like our recipe stands up pretty well to what we remember of Kanazawa, especially with the proper condiments.

Ingredients:

Pancakes:

· 2 cups all purpose flour

· 2 cups cool broth (ideally dashi stock, but chicken or vegetable broth work too)

· 4 eggs

· ½ cup tenkasu*

· 8 c. finely shredded cabbage (preferably Napa)

· 1 lb. lean pork

· 4 T chopped green onion

· Oil for frying

Condiments:

· Wasabi mayonnaise (can be purchased ready-made or make it yourself by adding wasabi—to taste—to your favorite mayo)

· Okonomiyaki or tonkatsu sauce

· Katsuobushi (dried bonito fish shavings)

· 4 T chopped green onion

Directions:

1. Mix flour and broth and let set in the fridge while you prepare the other ingredients.

2. Slice or shred the cabbage as finely as possible. I usually use the finer part of the Napa cabbage, the tip, and leave the thicker part, near the base, for another stir-fry dish. Chop the onions.

3. Slice the pork into thin strips. I cut chops in half lengthwise and then cut them into 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick slices.

4. Divide the ingredients evenly between four bowls and arrange them neatly. I generally put the cabbage and the batter side-by side at the bottom of the bowl, crack an egg and pour it whole into the middle, then arrange the pork, tenkasu, and green onions over the top.

5. Heat griddle to medium-high heat (350°-375°) and generously coat the surface with oil.

6. If you have an electric griddle, each person can mix their own ingredients and cook their pancakes simultaneously. Cook 3-5 minutes per side. Both sides should be well-browned.

7. Top the okonomiyaki with your favorite condiments and eat them while they’re piping hot!

Serves 4

*Tenkasu is a common ingredient in Japan and may be found in specialty Asian grocery stores. It is nothing more than tempura flakes, which are the left over bits of batter that accumulate in the fryer. You can make your own by sprinkling bits of batter into hot oil and removing them to drain before they get too brown. You can grind them briefly in a food processor if they are much larger than Rice Crispies.

Alternative recipe: Angela’s Favorite Asparagus, Corn and Bacon

Substitute thin asparagus, cut into ½ inch chunks (3 c.), and 3 c. frozen corn for the cabbage and 1lb bacon, cut into 1 inch strips, for the pork. The bacon can either be precooked or added raw, as you like it.