Thai Yellow Curry
with
Pineapple and Shrimp and Cherry Tomatoes
Thailand is a foodie’s paradise. Not only
does the variety and quantity of ingredients available set the country apart,
but the range of cooking styles is equally impressive. And we discovered that
it is a land of gourmets. Wherever they go, Thai’s will stop along the way to
snack. From the streets of Bangkok to the rural highways, you do not have to go
far to find a street-side food vendor making some kind of delicacy to an
exacting standard. Many Thais love to cook, but like most of us in this modern
age, don’t have the time to make a traditional meal every night. Instead of
resorting to processed fast food or frozen dinners, however, many Thais hit the
streets to put together a meal. They’ll visit a few different vendors and, in
no time, can piece together a meal that would make any Thai grandmother proud.
While in Thailand, we had the honor of cooking
with a Colonel in the Thai Air Force whose name was Oy.
Oy took the time out of his busy schedule to make a
traditional meal with us in his outdoor kitchen. We prepared many courses, starting
with an appetizer of stir-fried morning glory greens and ending with sweet sticky
rice and mangos for dessert. In true Thai form, Oy
hit up a road-side vendor for roast chicken, but the coup-de-grace of our feast
was the green curry that we prepared. Bursting with flavor, spicy and rich, I
consider curries to be the pinnacle of Thai cuisine.
Thai curries have become one of my favorite dishes
to cook (and for a while, they were the most aggravating). It has taken me three
years to get them right, and along the way I have made many versions that left
us all a bit disappointed. These attempts were palatable, and maybe even good,
but something was eluding me—that something that made the curries “pop”. However,
Angela kept encouraging me (given that Thai curries are one of her favorite
things to eat and no restaurants back here in the US can ever seem to get them
right). Eventually, I discovered the secret for the perfect curry: achieving a
harmonious balance. My strategies may be a bit unconventional, but I hope
you’ll find that the end result not only tastes authentic, but may offer some
improvements over what you might have had in the past.
I break down Thai curry into the following
categories: consistency, color, herb/spice character, heat (spiciness),
vegetable preparation, meat preparation, and the essential balance between
sweet, sour, salt, and umami (savory). Each of my curries, whether red, green,
or yellow, begins with the same basic formula. From here, I tweak each of the
categories until I get the perfect result.
Here are the basic steps I take when building a curry:
1. Begin with curry paste and equal parts of broth and
coconut milk. Curry paste needs to be fried in oil—the high heat transform the
flavors. If you want a creamier curry, add more coconut milk (even coconut
cream). To make it thinner, add more broth. I generally use chicken broth for
meat dishes and fish or shrimp broth for seafood dishes.
2. Check the spiciness early on. If you need more heat, add
some chilies. Adding sweetness later on will cut the heat, so keep this in
mind.
3. You can add something along the cooking process to
enhance the color of the curry (paprika or chili powder for red, turmeric for
yellow and fresh herbs at the end for green). I sometimes add another spice
like ginger or coriander to slightly shift the flavor profile.
4. I prefer to cook some types of veggies in the curry (like
eggplant and potatoes) while others I will stir-fry separately and then add
them in at the end (such as onions). Use minimal amounts of oil in stir-frying.
5. Meat I generally marinade, grill, slice and add in at the
end.
6. Begin to boost and balance the flavors by first adding
sugar (palm or coconut sugar is traditional, but I also occasionally use brown
sugar as a substitute). Then add salt (generally in the form of fish sauce,
which is also savory) until you achieve a nice sweet / salty balance. Finally, add
a bit of acid (usually lime juice) at the end to make it a little tangy or just
ad a bit of zip—all the while tasting and adjusting until the perfect balance
is achieved.
This is just a basic outline for making a
generic curry, but I think it is more instructive than a specific recipe. Keep
in mind that all of the ingredients in the recipe below should be adjusted to
your taste. Hopefully these guidelines will help you to make the perfect curry,
and allow you to improvise and formulate your own creations, adapted to your
taste.
Ingredients:
Directions:
1.
Sauté
curry paste in oil until fragrant.
2.
Add
coconut milk and broth and stir. Bring to boil.
3.
Reduce
to simmer. Add sugar, fish sauce, and turmeric.
4.
Simmer
for 10 minutes.
5.
Make
a puree of ginger and garlic by blending with a minimal amount of water in a
blender or food processor until smooth. Begin adding to the curry, one small
spoonful at a time. Adding this puree at different times in the cooking process
will impart slightly different flavors. Add a small bit throughout until the
level of ginger satisfies.
6.
Stir-fry
onions in 1 T. oil for a few minutes, remove from heat before they become soft,
and set them aside. Add pineapple and tomatoes to curry.
7.
Cook
for 5 minutes.
8.
Add
sugar, fish sauce, or lime to taste.
9.
Add
onions and shrimp. Cook for 2 minutes, until shrimp is cooked.
10.
Garnish
with cilantro and serve with steamed jasmine rice.